Sewing machine



1941- J. GOULDBOURN ETAL 2,253,233

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SEWING- MACHINE Filed May 18, 1939 8 Sheets-Sheet 7 Patented Aug. 19, 1941 SEWING MACHINE Joseph Gouldbourn and Thomas Aubrey Kestell Leicester, England, assignors to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application May 18, 1939, Serial No. 274,394 In Great Britain June 15, 1938 19 Claims.

This invention is concerned with improvements in or relating to sewing machines and is particularly, but by no means exclusively, concerned with curved hooked needle chainstitch sewing machines such as are particularly adapted for sewing the uppers and welts of boots or shoes (hereinafter referred to generically as shoes) of the so-called welted type, to lips or ribs on insoles secured on the bottoms of lasts Within the uppers.

An example of such welt-sewing machines is disclosed in the patent to Eppler No. 1,108,560 dated August 25, 1914.

While welt sewing machines of the kind at present in most general use are able, when run at a speed in the neighborhood of 600 R. P. M.,

to give results which are acceptable to shoe manufacturers yet we have observed that such machines are generally unable to stitch the upper, welt, and insole of a shoe as firmly together around the toe of the shoe as around the sides of the latter and, moreover, the particular arrangement of intermittent work-feeding instrumentalities which such machines make use of is not able consistently to ensure that the work is fed even distances between successive stitches, any unevenness in the stitch length producing an uneven appearance in the sewn seam and militating against the best results being obtained from the sewing operation. Moreover, such machines as just referred to are unsuited for high speed operation since, inter alia, the intermittently acting work-feeding mechanism, if run at a high speed in the neighborhood of 900 R. P. M.,-

not only imparts rapid and jerky feeding movements to the work which are likely to vary in length during successive sewing cycles, but also suffers from such rapidly developing mechanical wear or strain as speedily to render it unreliable.

It is one of the several objects of the present invention to provide a novel and improved weltsewing machine which shall be capable of producing stitches of substantially uniform tightness and of substantially uniform length all round the shoe forwardly of the heel breast line and shall contain work-feeding mechanism able to feed the work in a very smooth and continuent invention hereinafter described includes, with a view to ensuring the formation of uniformly tight stitches around the .toe as well as along the 7 sides of the shoe, needle loop deflector and thread finger mechanism similar in many respects to those disclosed in applicants pending application Serial No. 150,728 filed June 28, 1937, and with these mechanisms is combined a work-feeding mechanism arranged to feed the work continuously (or substantially continuously) during the whole of a machine cycle, as opposed to feeding it intermittently during part only of the cycle. The illustrative embodiment of work feeding mechanism is novel and comprises mechanism for causing the needle, awl, and channel guide (which members cooperate in the continuous feed of the work) to operate in such relative time sequence and at such relative speeds as, inter alia, to ensure that the channel guide is eifective in continuing the movement of the work both when the awl is leavingthe work and the needle is entering it and vice versa, and as to ensure that, preparatory to the needle actually entering the work, the awl will have been feeding the work along at a faster speed than that at which the needle moves in the direction of work feed when it has entered the work, thus tending to relieve the needle of strain exerted on it in feeding the work. The illustrative embodiment of the several features of the present invention also includes an arrangement whereby the needle and awl are both caused to enter the work from one and the same side of the insole ribs or lips and whereby the channel guide is arranged, by engagement with the work at the other side of the insole ribs or lips, to give very effective support to the work against the piercing action of the awl and needle; and an arrangement whereby, in spite of their movements to and fro along the line of work feed, the needle, awl, and channel guide at all times lie relatively close together laterally of the machine to facilitate the necessary turning of the shoe by the operator as the sewing proceeds around the toe.

In the said illustrative embodiment hereinafter described both the awl and needle are arranged to enter the work from, the rear side of the channel lips and the channel guide is arranged to engage the channel at the other or forward side of the lips, ,the needle being arranged to enter the hole made in the Work by the awl just after the awl leaves the work. The awl and needle are moved to and fro laterally once in each cycle of the machine to feed the shoe when in engagement therewith and the channel guide is moved to and fro twice in each cycle of the machine, and is arranged to continue the feed of the work at those two relatively short times in the cycle when neither the awl or the needle is in engage,- ment with the work. The channel guide ls moved in a direction (1. e; towards the right) opposite to that in which the work is fed at that stage when the needle is moving back towards the right and, after the needle, channel guide, and awl have'thereafter moved in company towards the left to carry the work a further ster; through ther return movement towards the ight at a later stage in the cycle when the awl i moves towards the right.

As above indicated, the arrangement is such the machine, the channel guide is giyn a furthat the two movements of the channel guide towards the left (which occur after the completion of the back-feeding movements of the needle and awl respectively) occur while the needle is withdrawing from the work and the awl is preparing to enter it and vice versa. Since the channel guide, the needle, and the awl are then moving in company towards the left, the leftward nel guide need only be of a relatively short duration and, owing to this fact the channel guide is enabled to lie comparatively close tothe needle and awl, considered laterally of the machine, at all times in the machine cycleand this close grouping of said three instrumentalities facilitates the turning of the work during the sewing around the toe without danger of the channel guide distorting the insole lips.

Moreover, the sub-division of the work feed between the needle, awl, and channel guide in the particular manner indicated, makes for a very smooth and even passage of the work through the machine and relieves the operator of any undue effort in controlling the work during the sewing therearound.

As'will hereinafter become more clear, the various mechanisms of the present illustrative embodiment which serve to impart their workfeeding movements to the needle, awl, and channel guide are such as are likely to run at high speeds with relative freedom from vibration and wear.

The channel guide is arranged more or less directly'in front of the awl when the latter commences to strike into the work and thus afiords very effective support to the insole lips at that time. The awl does not strike right through the insole lips and strike the channel guide, but moves across to the left away from behind the channel guide, while its point is projecting into the work, until it comes into line with the needle leaving very little work piercing duty to be performed by the needle and consequently reducing the possibility of needle breakagea result which could hardly be expected if the awl were caused to pierce the work from the forward side, as is at present usual, since the parts to be sewn together are not supported, at the rear by any firm abutment in the region of the sewing point.

Since the needle is a more slender, and therefore weaker, member than the awl, it is desir able to guard against a possibility for the needle to be bent or deflected out of its proper path at a stage in the machine cycle when it is serving as the sole work feeding member. To this end, the awl of the present illustrative machine (which is travelling with the work just prior to the entry of the needle into it) is caused automatically to move the work towards the left a little faster than the needle is moving in that direction just before the substitution of the needle for the awl in the work takes place, thus bringing about the result that the increased momentum in the work will, at the time the needle enters it, tend to eliminate any tendency that might otherwise be present for the work, by its resistance to movement, to bend the needle when the latter commences its feeding movement. Moreover, the awl is arranged to feed the work through a greater distance in each cycle than the needle.

The above and other of the various objects of the invention will become clear from the description (with reference to the accompanying drawings) which is now given, by way of example and not of limitation, of the said illustrative example, and the several features of the invention will be found set out in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawings:

Figures 1 and 2, taken together, illustrate in right hand side elevation, the upper part of a chainstitch welt shoe sewing machine in which an embodiment of the several features of the invention is included; Figure 3 is a detail view of the looper; Figure 4 is a left hand side elevation of the said mechanism; Figure 5 is a plan view, partly in section, of needle and channel guide feeding mechanism of the said illustrative embodiment; Figure 6 is a front elevation, partly in section, of part of an awl feeding mechanism of the said illustrative embodiment; Figure '7 is a plan view of part of the mechanism shown in Figure 6; Figure 8 is a plan view, partly in section, of needle, awl and channel guide feeding mechanism of the illustrative embodiment; Figure 9 is a right hand side elevation of a channel guide supporting and actuating mechanism of the illustrative embodiment; Figure 10 is a right hand side elevation of welt guide locking mechanism of the illustrative embodiment; Figure 11 is a section on the line XL-XI in Figure 10; Figure 12 is a section on the line XII-XII of Figure 10; Figure 13 is a front elevation of a thread deflector and its actuating mechanism of the illustrative embodiment; Figure 14 is a right hand side elevation of a mechanism for moving the thread finger forwardly or rearwardly with the welt guide of the illustrative embodiment; Figure 15 is a front elevation of a looper actuating mechanism of the illustrative embodiment; Figure 16 is a front elevation showing the relative positions of the stitch-forming and work feeding devices of the illustrative embodiment in the stopping position of the machine; Figure 17 shows the relative positions of these parts after a cam shaft of the machine has rotated through fifty-five degrees from its stopping po- Figures 18 and 19 respectively; Figure 23 i a diagram indicating the relative timing of the operating parts of the machine.

The illustrative machine in which said illustrative embodiment is included is, except-as will hereinafter appear, of the same general character as that disclosed in the patent to Eppler No. 1,108,560 above referred to. In the illustrative machine, however, thecurved awl l and the curved hooked needle 3 both move forwardly into engagement with the work, i. e., they both enter the work at the same side thereof.

In the illustrative machine, the work is fed continuously or substantially so by the cooperation of the awl, needle, and a channel guide of the machine, these parts being so operated thatone or more are continually in engagement with and feeding the work.

The needle 3 of the illustrative machine is secured in a needle carrier 1 which is oscillated about a horizontal axis extending laterally of the machine and is arranged to be moved to and fro laterally of the machine. The awl l is secured in the lower end of an arm II which is oscillated about a horizontal axis extending laterally of the machine and is also moved to and fro laterally of the machine. The axis of the awl carrying arm is higher than and somewhat forwardly of the axis of the needle carrier 1. The curved paths of the needle and awlare so arranged that as the awl is being moved rearwardly out of and away from the work, the needle is advancing towards and into the hole in the work just left by the awl along a path just above the awl.

The needle carrier 1 has extending from it towards the right a horizontal sleeve l5 (Figure 5) which is rotatably and slidably mounted'in a bearing H on a downwardly and forwardly projecting arm of a bracket 19, Figs. 1, 5 and 8, secured on the front portion of a head 2| ofthe machine.

The needle carrier 1 has pivotally connected to it by a universal coupling the forward end of a rearwardly extending link 23 (Figs. 1 and 2). The rear end of the link 23 is pivotally connected by a universal connection to the forward end of a cam lever 25 which, at its rear end is pivoted on a horizontal shaft 21 extending laterally of the machine and secured in the head 2| of the machine at the rear of a horizontal cam shaft 29 of the machine which extends laterally thereof and is rotatably mounted in the head 2|. The cam lever 25 has extending laterally from it between its ends a cam roll 3| which enters a cam groove in a cam secured on the camshaft 29.

The awl carrying arm .ll extends downwardly 'and rearwardly from the hub of an awl lever 33 which has extending towards the right from it a stem 35 (Figure 6) which is rotatably and slidably supported by a bracket 31 secured to the underside of the bracket l9, Figs. 1 and 8.

The awl lever "has an upwardly and rearwardly extending arm 33 (Figure 1) the upper end of which is pivotally connected by a universal coupling to the rear end of a forwardly and upwardly extending link ll. The forward end of the latter link is pivotally connected by a universal coupling to the lower end of one arm 43 of a bell-crank lever 45. The bell-crank lever 45 is pivoted on a horizontal shaft 41 extending laterally of the machine secured in the machine head 2|. Another arm 49 of the bell-crank lever 45 extends rearwardly and has extending laterally from it a cam roll 5| which engages in a cam groove in a cam secured on the aforesaid cam shaft 29 of the machine.

The needle carrier 1 has extending to the left from it a horizontal sleeve 53 (Figure 5) on which is mounted so as to rotate to a limited extent relatively to the sleeve a needle guide sleeve 55 having on its right hand end a needle guide 51. The needle guide sleeve 55 is rotatably and slidably mounted in a needle guide driving sleeve 59 which is rotatably mounted in a bearing St on a bracket 63 secured on the head of the machine at the left of the first mentioned bracket l9. The needle guide driving sleeve 59 has on its left hand end a gear segment 65 which is engaged by a gear segment 61 formed on an arm 69 which is pivoted on a horizontal shaft H extending laterally of the machine. The arm 69 has extending from it a sleeve through which the shaft passes and the sleeve has adjustably secured on it an arm '13 which carries a cam roll 15 which engages a cam groove in a cam on the cam shaft 29. The arms 69 and 13 may be adjusted relatively about the shaft II to adjust the position of the needle guide 51 relatively to the point of the needle.

The right hand end of the needle guide driving sleeve 59 has extending from it a projection 11 (Figure 4) which engages in a recess formed in a flange 19 on the right hand end of the needle guide sleeve 55 to drive the needle guide sleeve.

The flange on the needle guide sleeve has extending downwardly from it an arm to which is secured the needle guide 51.

The sleeves l5 and 53 aforementioned on the needle carrier 1 are bored axially and have passing axially through them a rod BI which is slightly smaller in diameter than the bore in the sleeves. The rod 8| at its right hand end has formed on it a head 83. The right hand end face of the right hand sleeve I5 on the needle carrier 1 is slightly rounded and the left-hand end face of the head 83 on the rod 8| is slightly concave and engages the rounded end of the sleeve. The left hand end of the rod 8| has on it a washer 85 having a slightly concave right hand end face which engages the left hand slightly rounded end faces of the left hand sleeve 53 on the needle carrier 1 and needle guide sleeve 55. The rod 8| has on its left hand end a nut and locknut 81 which are adjusted so as to allow the needle carrier 1 to oscillate relatively to the rod BI and to allow slight lateral movement of the rod 8| relatively to the sleeves, the concave and rounded faces on the sleeves, washer and head of the rod assisting in this lateral movement taking place. The head 83 on the right hand end of the rod 81 is forked and extending across the fork is a vertical pin 88 which pivotally connects the fork to the forward end of an arm 89 of a needle feed lever 99 which is pivoted on a vertical spindle Hli secured in the head 2!.

of the machine. The needle feed lever 99 has another arm I03 which extends from the hub of the lever towards the right and somewhat rearwardly.

The right hand end of the latter arm I03 has pivotally connected to it by a vertical pin I the forward ends of a pair of parallel links I01, one above and the other below the end of the arm. The rear ends of the links I01 are pivotally connected by a vertical pin I09 to the forward end of a single link III (Figure 8), positioned between the rear ends of the pair of links I01, which extends rearwardly and to the right and the rear ends of the links I01 are also pivotally connected by the pin I09 to the left hand ends of a second pair of links II3, one above and one below the rear ends of the first pair of links I01. The single link III is pivoted at its rear end to the forward end of one arm II5 (Figure 8) of a cam lever II1 which is pivoted on a vertical spindle II9 secured in the machine head 2I rearward of the cam shaft 29. Another arm I2I of the cam lever I I9 extends forwardly from its hub beneath the cam shaft 29 and carries at its forward end an upwardly extending cam roll I23 which enters a cam groove in a cam on the cam shaft. The right hand ends of the second pair of links II3 are pivoted on a vertical spindle I25 (Figure 5) which is secured in the right hand end of a yoke member I21, the left hand end of which has extending upwardly and downwardly from it pins I29 which are rotatably mounted in the machine head. The yoke member I21 is normally secured to the head of the machine but may be adjusted about the axis of vertical pins I29 extending upwardly and downwardly from the yoke member to adjust the axis about which the second pair of links II3 are moved by the cam lever H1 and so vary the path of movement of the pivot I09 connecting the two pairs of links II3, I01 and the single link III so as to adjust the amount of feed movement imparted to the needle. said vertical spindle I25 on the yoke member I21 extends downwardly from the member and passes through a curved slot I3I' in a portion I33 of the machine frame which slot is concentric to the axis about which the yoke member is adjusted. The lower end of the spindle is threaded and has on it a nut I35 (Figs. 1 and 2) by means of which the yoke member may be secured to the machine frame. The position in the machine of the pins I29 on the yoke member I21 is such that at a certain time in the cycle of the machine the axis of the pivot I09 connecting the two pairs of links I01, H3 and single link III is in vertical alignment with the axis of the pins I29 on the yoke member. The said axes are in alignment when the awl is moving rearwardly out of and away from the work and the needle is moving forwardly and into the hole The aforein the work made by the awl and the centre lines of the needle and awl are in the same vertical plane. Adjustment of the yoke member about the axis of the pins I29 does not therefore alter the relative positions of the needle and awl laterally of the machine at the time when the awl is moving away from the work and the needle is moving towards the work.

The stem 35 on the awl lever 33 (Figure 6) passes through a sleeve I31, in which it can oscillate, which is slidingly mounted in the bracket 31 which is secured to the underside of the bracket I9. The bracket 31 is secured to the bracket I9 by bolts I39 (Figure 7) which pass through slots MI in the bracket 31 which allow the bracket 31 to be adjusted on the bracket I9 so that the path of the awl is parallel to the path of the needle or is at an angle thereto. If the awl is arranged to move in a path which is at an angle to the path of the needle, the awl point is moved forwardly and towards the needle path from the right thereof so that if the work is turned, for example, in sewing around the toe of a shoe, the hole in the work made by the awl will be brought more or less into line with the path of the needle. The right hand end of the stem 35 on the awl lever 33 is reduced in diameter and the reduced portion is threaded and has on it a washer I43 and nut I45. The washer I43 engages the right hand end of the sleeve I31 and the hub of the lever engages the left hand end of the sleeve. The arrangement being such that the awl lever 33 moves with the sleeve I31 laterally of the machine and oscillates relatively to the sleeve. The sleeve I31 has extending upwardly from it near the right hand end an eccentric stud I41 on which is pivoted the right hand end of a horizontal link I49 extending laterally of the machine. The left hand end of the link I49 is pivotally connected by a vertical pin I5I to the forward end of one arm I53 of an awl feed lever I55 which is pivoted on the same vertical spindle IOI as the needle feed lever 99. The awl feed lever I55 has extending towards the right and somewhat rearwardly from its. hub an arm I51 which has pivoted to it the forward ends of a pair of parallel links I59 one above and the other below the arm. The rear ends of the pair of links I59 have pivoted to them by a vertical pin I6I a second pair of parallel links I63, one above and the other below the first pair I59, and the forward end of a single link I65 positioned between the rear ends of the first pair of links I59. The second pair of links I63 extend towards the right and their right hand ends are pivoted on the same vertical spindle I25 carried by the yoke member I-21'as the second pair of links II3 associated with the needle feed mechanism. The rear .end of the single link I65 is pivotally connected by a vertical pin I61 to one arm I69 of a cam lever I" which has another arm I13 extending beneath the cam shaft 29 and carrying an upwardly extending cam roll I15 which enters a cam groove in a cam on the cam shaft. The mechanism for moving the awl to andfro in the direction of feed is similar to the mechanism for so moving the needle and, if the yoke member I 21 is adjusted as aforesaid, the feed movement of the awl is adjusted simultaneously with the adjustment of the feed movement of the needle. By

means of the eccentric stud I41, the awl may be adjusted laterally of the machine to bring it into correct relationship to the needle when assembling the parts. The needle moves in the direction of work feed during about 280 degrees of each machine cycle and moves in the opposite direction or returns duringabout degrees of' The channel guide is secured ona vertical face formed on the front of an arm I11 (Figure 9) of a channel guide lever I19 which arm I11 extends rearwardly from its forward end and the lever I19 is pivoted on an eccentric portion IBI of a vertical shaft I83 secured in the machine head. By rotating the shaft I83, the channel guide may be adjusted forwardly or rearwardly in the machine. The channel guide 5 is secured to the 'front face of the arm I11 by a clamp screw I85 which passes through a vertical slot in the channel guide and the channel guide maybe adjusted heightwise on the arm I11 by an eccentric I81 which is rotatably mounted in the arm and engages a groove extending across the rear face of the channel guide. channel guide lever I19 has a rearwardly extending horizontal arm I89 to the rear end of which is pivoted by a vertical pin I9I a two-armed lever I93, one arm of which extends forwardly and the other rearwardly from the pin I9I. The arms of the two-armed lever have pivotally connected to them by vertical pins I95, I91 a pair of parallel horizontal links I99, -20I of equal length which extend towards the right. The right hand end of the rear link 2M is pivotally connected by a vertical pin 203 to the rear end of an arm 205 extending rearwardly from the aforesaid needle feed lever 99. The right hand end of the front link I99 is pivotally connected by a vertical pin 201 to the rear end of an arm 209 which extends rearwardly from the aforesaid awl feed lever I 55, which arm lies above the last-mentioned arm 205 on the needle feed lever. The channel-guide 5 therefore receives its to and fro movement along the line of feed from the needle and. awl feed mechanisms. The vertical shaft I83 on which the channel guide lever I19 is pivoted and the vertical spindle IIII on which the awl and needle feed levers I55, 99 are pivoted are positioned side by side in the machine the 7 same distance rearwardlyfrom the line of feed which extends from right to left of the machine and the links I99, 2III which connect the twoarmed lever I93 on the channel guide lever I19 and the awl and needle feed levers are both equal in length to the distance apart of the shaft I93 and spindle IOI. When the rearwardly extending arms 209, 205 of the awl and needle feed levers are swung towards the right, viewed i the awl or needle whichever is being moved, and

if either the awl or needle feed lever is being moved in a direction to feed the work and the other is being moved in the opposite direction then, depending on the direction of movement of the awl and needle feed levers, the channel guide lever may be moving in a direction to feed the work or in the opposite direction.

The channel guide is positioned in front of the awl when the latter moves forwardly into engagement with the work, and the work is therefore well supported during the work penetrating movement of the awl. The awl, when feeding the work towards the left, moves from behind the channel guide to a position just at the left of the latter into a position where the needle can enter thehole in the work made by the awl and the needle, awl and channel guid are po sitioned, considered laterally of the machine, comparatively close together and do not interfere with the turning of the shoe when sewing is being performed around the toe or other curved portions thereof.

Assuming the illustrative machine to be in operation to sew a seam and the sewing instrumentalities to have reached once more the positions which they occupied when the machine came to rest, the awl and needle are both out of the work and their center lines are in the same vertical plane. The needle is moving forwardly towards the work and the awl is moving rearwardly away from the work. The awl, needle and channel guide are all moving inthe direction of feed, the work being held against the channel guide by the operator which is feeding the work. The awl, the timing of which is indicated by the line A in the accompanying diagram, reaches its most rearward position, indicated by the letter a in' line A, when the cam shaft has rotated through about 25 degrees from its starting position and the needle, the timing of which is indicated by the line B in the diagram, reaches its most forward position, indicated by the letter a in line B, when the cam shaft has rotated through about 50 degrees from its starting position. The awl remains in its most rearward position while the cam shaft rotates through about a further degrees when it begins to move forwardly into engagement with the work and reaches its most forward position when the cam shaft has rotated through about 180 degrees from its starting position. The awl dwells in its most forward position while the cam shaft rotates through about a further 150 degrees when it begins to move rearwardly out of and away from the work. The needle remains in its most forward position while the cam shaft rotates through about degrees and then commences to move rearwardly and reaches its fully retracted position when the cam shaft has rotated throughabout 245 degrees from its starting. position. The needle immediately begins to move forward slightly and at the same time is moved laterally in the opposite direction to the direction of work feed. The slight forward movement of the needle continues during about degrees ofrotation of the cam shaft when the needle begins to move rapidly forwardly towards the work. The needle, when in its rearward position, has drawn a loop of thread through the work .and the slight forward movement of the needle as it is moved laterally prevents undesirable strain being placed on the thread.

Th 'channel guide. does not move towards or from the work during normal operation of the machine but may be moved forwardly as the machine stops so as to allow work to be removed from and presented to the machine.

The needle continues to move in the direction of feed, see the line C in the diagram, until the cam shaft has rotated through about 255 degrees from its starting position and then commences to move'in the opposite direction and moves in the latter direction, between the points marked a and b in line C in the diagram, while the cam shaft rotates through about a further 80 degrees when it commences to again move in the direction of feed. The awl is moving in the direction of work feed at the commencement of the machine cycle, see the line D in the diagram and continues to move in this direction while the cam shaft rotates through about 55 degrees from its starting position. The awl then moves in the opposite direction, between the points marked a and b in line D in the diagram, while the cam shaft rotates through about a further 100 degrees and then moves in the oppositedirection until the end of the cycle.

The channel guide is moving in the direction of feed, see the line E in the diagram, at the commencement of the cycle and continues to move in that direction during about 55 degrees of rotation of the cam shaft from its starting position. The channel guide then commences to move in the opposite direction and continues to do so during about a further 100 degrees of rotation of the cam shaft when it again begins to move in the direction of feed. The channel guide moves again in the direction of feed during about a further 100 degrees of rotation of the cam shaft and then again moves in the opposite direction while the cam shaft rotates through about 80 degrees when the channel guide commences to once more move in the direction of feed and so moves until the end of the cycle. It will, therefore, be apparent that during each cycle of the machine the channel guide moves to and fro twice, the channel guide therefore acting to feed or assist in feeding the work twice in each cycle.

During about the first 55 degrees of rotation of the cam shaft in each cycle of the machine, the awl, needle and channel guide are moving together in the direction of feed, and the needle and channel guide are feeding the work. Dur-; ing about the next 100 degrees of rotation of the cam shaft, the needle alone continues to feed the work and the awl and channel guide move back in the opposite direction. During about the next 100 degrees of rotation of the cam shaft the awl, needle and channel guide all move in the direction of feed, the awl and channel guide actually feeding the work. During about the next 80 degrees of rotation of the cam shaft, the'awl alone is feeding the work, and the needle and channel guide are moving in the opposite direction and during about the last 25 degrees of rotation of the cam shaft the awl, needle and channel guide are all moving in the direction of feed.

The illustrative machine includes a welt guide M for guiding a welt to a shoe to which the welt is being sewn, for which the usual form of back gage may be substituted when a turn shoe is to be sewn as is customary in inseam shoe sewing machines. The welt guide is secured to the lower end of an upwardly extending welt guide arm 2 and consists of a more or less horizontal loop of thin metal, the arms of which extend rearwardly and are secured to the arm. The loop has in it a gauge which may be adjusted forwardly or rearwardly to suit the width of the welt being used. The welt guide is positioned behind the channel guide 5 and moves to and fro with the awl l during its feeding and return movements. The welt guide arm is curved from its lower end upwardly and forwardly to a comparatively long horizontal hub 219 (Figure 8) of a welt guide arm 2" from which it extends, extending laterally of the machine. The hub 2l9 of the welt guide lever is pivotally mounted on an eccentric portion 22l of a horizontal spindle 223 extending laterally of the machine. The left hand end of the spindle 223 is slidingly mounted in the bracket 63 at the front of the head of the machine and the hub 2l9 of the welt guide lever 2" is constrained to move laterally with the spindle by a shoulder at the left hand end of the spindle at one end of the eccentric portion thereof and a sleeve 225 secured in a reduced threaded concentric portion 221 at the other end of the spindle. The sleeve 225 passes through a bore in a small block 229 and the reduced portion 221 has at the right of the block 229 a nut 23l by which the block may be clamped to the spindle. The sleeve 225 is slidably mounted in the aforesaid bracket IS. The small block 229 is guided in and prevented from rotating by guideways in the right hand bracket I9 which are engaged byrearwardly and forwardly projecting portions 233, 235 of the block (Figures 1 and 6). If the nut 23! on the right hand end of the spindle is slackened, the spindle may be rotated to adjust the welt guide upwardly or downwardly relatively to the awl. The rearwardly extending portion 233 (Figure 6) of the small block 229 has extending through it a vertical stud 231 on which is pivoted the forked right hand end of a link 239 which extends towards the left, and the left hand end of the link 239 is pivoted on the same stud l5l as the left hand end of the link I49 associated with the awl feed mechanism so that the welt guide moves laterally to and fro with the awl and the welt guide may therefore be positioned close to the right hand side of the awl with the result that the welt is accurately guided into the path of the awl. The welt is moved towards and from the work twice during each cycle of the machine. The welt guide is locked against rearward movement during the greater part of the machine cycle, being unlocked only when it is moving towards the work. The welt guide is moved forwardly into engagement with the shoe by a spring so that the welt guide can accommodate itself to the position forwardly or rearwardly of the machine of the portion of the shoe which it engages.

The hub 2|9 of the welt guide lever has an arm 2 (Figures 1 and 4) extending upwardly and forwardly from it. The upper end of the arm 2 has connected to it by a universal coupling the lower end of an upwardly and rearwardly extending rod 243 and has also connected to it the lower end of a spring 245, which moves the welt guide forwardly, which extends upwardly and rearwardly and at its upper end is connected to a pin 241 extending laterally from an arm 249 adjustably secured on a horizontal shaft 25l extending laterally of and secured in the machine head. The arm 249 may be adjusted about its shaft 25l to adjust the tension of the spring 245. The upper end of the rod 243 is pivotally connected to a horizontal pin 253 (Figure 10) extending laterally of the machine, the pin 253 being slightly smaller than the bore in the rod 243 so that the forward end of the latter can move laterally of the machine with the welt guide. The pin 253 is carried by part of a welt guide locking and actuating mechanism similar in many respects to the presserfoot locking and lifting mechanism disclosed in Patent No. 2,056,670 dated October 6, 1936. The pin 253 is carried by the middle portion of a short link 255 which extends upwardly and forwardly in the machine. The upper end of the short link 255 is pivotally connected by a horizontal pin 251 extending laterally of the machine to the forward end of a rearwardly and upwardly extending rod 259. The rod 259 at its upper end is pivotally mounted on a horizontal stud 26! extending laterally of the machine which is adjustably secured in-an arcuate slot said short link 255 is pivotally connected by a horizontal pin 215 (Figures and 11) extending laterally of the machine, to a pair of wedge plates 211, 219 and a central wedge member 281 which are slidingly mounted in a block 283 which is secured to the machine head 2|. The holes in the wedge plates and central wedge member are slightly larger than the diameter of the pin for the reason described in said patent. Between the wedge plate 219 and the central wedge member 28! is a spacing piece 285 and between the other wedge plate 211 and the central wedge member 28l are a series of steel rollers 281. The series of rollers 281 is engaged at one end by a tapered bar 289 which is adjustably mounted on the machine head 2|. The other end of the series of rollers 281 is engaged by a locking finger 291 which extends upwardly and. forwardly from a hub- 293 rotatably mounted on a horizontal shaft 295 extending laterally of the machine and secured in the machine head 21. The hub 293 of the locking finger has extending from it a sleeve portion 294 (Figure 12) on which is mounted a cam arm 291 (Figures 1, 2 and 10) having extending from it a cam roll 299 which engages in a cam on the cam shaft 29. The hub 293 has in it a spring plunger 30l arranged to normally engage a recess in the cam arm 291- and cause the cam arm 291 and flnger 291 to normally move together. The plunger 30| allows the cam arm 291 to move relatively to the finger 29I after the latter has pressed the rollers 281 into locking engagement with the plate 211 and central wedge member 28L The welt guide, as has already been stated, moves to and fro with the awl. The welt guide is in engagement with the work during about all the time when the awl, needle and channel guide are all moving in the direction of feed as hereinbefore described and is withdrawn from engagement with the work during those times in the machine cycle when the needle and channel guide and the awl and channel guide are moving in the opposite direction. The welt guide is unlocked during those times when it is. moving forwardly into engagement with the work so that it can accommodate itself to the position in the machine of that face of the work which it engages. The illustrative machine includes a thread deflector 303 (Figures 1, 4 and 13)' operating to defiect the loop of thread drawn back by the needle substantially as described in applicants pending application hereinbefore referred to.

The thread deflector 303 in the illustrative machine is given a different movement to that described in said application in order to cooperate with the devices for feeding the work continuously. i

In the illustrative machine the needle after it has drawn a loop of thread through the work and has reached its most rearward position moves towards the right in the opposite direction to the feed of the work and the thread deflector 303'is caused to move with the needle so that the needle does not exert an undesirable strain on the thread engaged by the deflector during such movement of the needle. The thread deflector in the illustrative machine engages and deflects the loop of thread extending from the work to the needle as the latter is moving rearwardly and retains its engagement with the loop during movement of the needle towards the work. The loop deflector then moves downwardly and rearwardly at the left of the needle, below the level of the needle, to release the loop and is moved to the right of the needle before it is moved upwardly and forwardly in readiness to engage the next loop drawn through the work by the needle before it is moved to the left to deflect that loop. 1

In the illustrative machine, the deflector 303 is secured in a member 305 pivoted by pins 301, 309 (Figure 13) to a pair of parallel links 3, 3l3 which are pivoted at 3l5, 311 to a cam lever 3| 9 (Figures 1 and 2) which is pivoted on a horizontal stud 321 extending laterally of the machine and secured in the head 2| of the machine.

The cam lever carries a cam roll 323 which enters a cam groove in a cam on the cam shaft 29 of the machine. The link 3l3 has a rearwardly extending arm 325 to which is connected by a universal coupling the right hand end of a rod 321. The left hand end of the rod 321 is connected by a universal coupling to one arm 329 of a cam lever 3 which is pivoted on a forwardly and upwardly extending shaft 343 secured in the head of the machine. Another arm 345 of the cam lever 34! carries a cam roll 341 which engages in a cam groove in a cam on the cam shaft 29. The cam levers 3 I 9, 34l move the thread deflector 303 forwardly and rearwardly about the shaft 32l and laterally about the shaft 343.

However, in the illustrative machine, the deflector may be connected to the welt guide and be caused to move lengthwise in the member, instead of being secured thereto, towards and from the work with the welt guide. This latter arrangement ensures that the deflector engages the thread a uniform distance away from the work irrespective of the position in the machine forwardly and rearwardly thereof of the face of the work which the welt guide engages.

If the thread deflector is connected tothe welt guide so as to move forwardly and rearwardly with the guide, the deflector is secured in a sleeve 343, (Figure 14) slidingly mounted in the aforesaid member 305 instead of being secured in the member, and the upper end of the deflector has formed in it a forwardly and rearwardly extending recess which receives the rear rounded end of one arm 349 of a bell-crank lever 351 pivoted on a horizontal pivot 353 extending laterally of the machine secured in the aforesaid member 305 in which the deflector is slidingly mounted. Another arm 355 of the bell-crank lever 35l extends upwardly from the hub of the lever and its upper end is connected by a universal'coupling to the rear end of a forwardly and upwardly extending rod 351. The forward end of the latter rod 351 is connected by a universal coupling to the upper end of an arm 359 extending from the aforesaid hub 2l9 of the welt'guide lever.

The illustrative machine includes a looper 35l and a thread finger 363.

The thread flnger 363 has a forked lower end for engaging the thread and from its lower end the thread finger extends upwardly. From the upper end of the thread finger there extends a stem 365 (Figure 1) which is rotatably mounted in the machine head. The forward end of the stem 365 has secured on it an arm 301 to which is pivotally connected the lower end of a link 369. The upper end of the link 369 is pivotally connected to an arm 311 of a cam lever which is secured on a shaft 313 which is rotatably mounted in a bracket 315 secured on the machine head. Another arm 311 of the cam lever carries a cam roll which engages in a cam groove in a cam on the cam shaft 29.

In the illustrative machine the looper 361 (Figure 1) extends upwardly and forwardly from its lower end, i. e., the end from which the thread emerges, and is secured in the lower end of one arm 319 of a looper lever 38l which also extends upwardly and forwardly of the machine. The looper lever 38! has secured in it about mid-way of its length a more or less horizontal stud .383 extending laterally of the machine which is rotatably mounted in a block 385 pivoted on an upwardly and rearwardly extending pivot 381 secured in the machine head. Another arm 389 of the looper lever 301 extends upwardly and forwardly from the hub of the lever and at its upper end is connected by a universal coupling to the forward end of a guiding lever 39l (Figures 1, 4 and 15) which extends upwardly and rearwardly from its lower end more or less at right angles to the looper lever and is pivoted about mid-way of its length on a downwardly and rearwardly extending pivot 393 secured in an arm 395 which is pivoted at the right hand side of the guiding lever 39l on a downwardly and rearwardly extending pivot 391 secured in the machine head. The upper end of the guiding lever 39l is pivotally connected by a downwardly and rearwardly extending pivot 399 to the lower ends of a pair of links 401, 403 one extending upwardly and towards the right from its lower end, and the other extending upwardly and towards the left. The upper ends of the links 401, 403 are each pivotally connected to cam levers 405, 401 which are actuated by a cam on the cam shaft 29. The cam levers 405, 401 are pivoted on the same downwardly and rearwardly extending pivot 409 which is secured in the machine head. This mechanism causes the lower end of the looper to move in a closed path around the end portion of the needle when the latter is projecting forwardly through the work to lay the thread in the hook of the needle. When wrapping the thread around the needle, the looper, i. e., its lower end, moves from a position at the left hand side and somewhat rearwardly of the needle, where the thread finger can engage the thread extending from the looper to the work, forwardlly and around the front of the needle to a position directly behind the path of the needle, the needle having moved rearwardly somewhat with the thread laid in its hook. The looper dwells in this position, while the thread finger returns to the left, having moved to the right to assist in laying the thread in the hook of the needle, and then moves rearwardly and to the left into its starting position. It will be noted that by reason of the manner in which the looper lever 381 is mounted, the looper 36l may be moved in any desired path and it will also be noted that the mechanism for actuating the looper lever comprising the guiding lever 39l (see Fig. 15), the swinging arm 395 on which the guiding lever ls pivotally mounted, the cam levers 405, 401

and the links 401, 403 connecting the cam levers to one end of the guiding lever 391 permit the looper 36l to be moved about the needle and properly thread the needle, notwithstanding the movement of the needle in the direction of feed while being looped.

The cam shaft 29 of the illustrative machine is driven in the reverse direction, to that in which it is driven during normal operation of the machine, during the stopping of the machine, and during such reversal of the cam shaft the welt guide is moved rearwardly and the channel guide is moved forwardly so as to allow the work to be readily removed.

The illustrative machine includes a clutch and reverse driving mechanism substantially similar to that described in the patent to Topham'No. 1,099,326 dated June 9, 1914, and includes an actuating lever 4 (Figure 2) which actuates the actuating lever. The actuating lever 41! is pivoted to the upper end of an arm 5 of a bellcrank lever 411 which is pivoted on a horizontal shaft 419 extending laterally of the machine and secured in the machine head rearward of and lower than the cam shaft. The other arm 421 of the bell crank lever 411 extends forwardly beneath the cam shaft. During the reverse rotation of the cam shaft during the stopping of the machine after a clutch controlling treadle thereof has been released, the bell-crank lever 411 is moved by the actuating lever 4 in a clockwise direction viewed from the right to raise a shoulder 423 on the forwardly extending arm 42I of the bell-crank lever into the path of a stop face 425 on a cam on the cam shaft, and the engagement of the stop face with the shoulder stops the reverse rotation of the cam shaft. The upper end of the aforesaid arm 415 of the bell-crank lever 4| 1 has rotatably mounted in it a horizontal pivot 421 extending laterally of the machine which has pivoted on it the aforesaid actuating lever 4| I. The pivot 421 has on it an eccentric portion (not shown) to which is connected one end of a brake band extending partly around the periphery of a cam on the cam shaft, the other end of the brake band being secured to the head of the machine. The pivot 421 has secured on it a treadle controlled lever 429 having a forwardly and downwardly extending arm which is connected by a downwardly ex-- tending rod 43l to the aforesaid clutch controlling treadle. The treadle controlled lever 429 has extending rearwardly from it a rearwardly extending arm 433 having secured to its underside a hardened plate 435. When the treadle is released, the treadle rod 431 is raised by a spring and the treadle controlled lever 429 is thereby rotated in a clockwise direction, viewed from the right, and the hardened plate 435 is moved downwardly into such a position that when the aforesaid arm 415 of the bell-crank lever 411 on which the treadle controlled lever is pivoted is moved in a clockwise direction when viewed from the right, i. e., rearwardly, it engages a pin 431 projecting laterally from the lower end of a depending arm 439 of a welt guide operating lever, which arm is secured on a horizontal shaft! extending laterally of the machine and is rotatably mounted in a bearing at the rear of the machine head and moves this arm in an anticlockwise direction.

Another arm 443 secured on the shaft 441 and forming part of the welt guide operating lever extending upwardly and has pivotally connected to its upper end by a horizontal pivot extending laterally of the machine, the rear end of a forwardly extending link 445. The forward end of the link 445 is pivotally connected to one arm of a bell-crank lever 44! which is pivoted on a horizontal shaft 449 extending laterally of the machine and secured in the machine head. The other arm of the bell-crank lever 44! is connected to the upper end of a downwardly and forwardly extending link 45l by a pin in the arm and a slot extending lengthwise of the link. The lower end of the link 45! is pivotally connected by a horizontal pin extending laterally of the machine to the upper ends of the aforesaid wedge plates 2'", 219 (Figure 11) associated with the welt guide locking mechanism and when, as the machine comes to rest, the welt guide operating lever is swung in an anti-clockwise direction the welt guide is moved rearwardly.

The aforesaid vertical shaft I83 on an eccentric portion lfll, of which the channel guide lever I19 is pivoted may be rotated to adjust the channel guide forwardly or rearwardly and then locked in position.

Just before the machine comesto rest during reverse rotation of the cam shaft 29, the actuating lever 4| 1 is moved rearwardly and swings'the bell-crank lever 4!"! to which it is connected in a clockwise direction viewed from the right. The treadle will have been released and raised by a spring connected to it and to the machine frame. As the treadle is raised, the treadle controlled lever 429 is swung in a clockwise direction and moves the block 435 carried by it downwardly into a position where it can engage the pin 43! in the welt guide operating lever 439, 443 when as aforesaid, the bell-crank lever 4|! to which the actuating lever 4 is connected is swung in a clockwise direction as the machine comes to rest.

When, just before the machine comes to rest, the bell-crank lever 4|! to which the actuating lever 4H isconnected is movedin a clockwise direction, viewed from the right, the welt guide operating lever 439, 443 is swung in a counterclockwise direction by the engagement of the block 435, on the treadle controlled lever 429 with the pin 431 in a downwardly extending arm 439 of the welt guide operating lever and the welt guide is moved rearwardly. The arm 42! on the bell-crank lever'4ll to, which the actuating lever 4! I is connected and which extends forwardly beneath the cam shaft has pivotally connected 293 of the locking finger 29l of the welt guide locking mechanism. When just before the machine comes to rest the bell-crank lever 4|! to which the actuating lever 4 is connected is swung in a clockwise direction, the arm 42! of the bell-crank lever which extends beneath the cam shaft is raised and. through the rod 453 unlocks the welt guide, which is locked at this time in the cycle of the machine during its normal operation, the unlocking of the welt guide occurring just before it is moved rearwardly during the stopping of the machine as hereinbefore described.

The spring plunger 3M enables the arm of the bell-crank lever 42! to which the rod 453 is con-' nected to move upwardly after the welt guide is unlocked and the slot at the upper end of the rod allows the locking finger to be operated during normal operation of the machine to lock and unlock'the welt guide. It will, therefore, be apparent that just before the machine comes to rest the welt guide is movedrearwardly so that the work may conveniently be removed from the machine and a fresh, workpiece may be presented thereto.

When the treadle is depressed to cause the machine to operate, the block 435 on the -treadle controlled lever 429 is immediately raised above the pin 43'! in the Welt guide operating lever and allows the welt guide to .be moved forwardly by its spring 245. Also, as the treadle is'depressed the brake band is released owing to the aforesaid pivot, in the upwardly extending arm 5 of the bell-crank lever to which the actuating lever 4 is connected, which has on it the eccentric portion to which one end of the brake band is connected being rotated. v

The relativ timing of many of the operating parts of the machine has already been indicated. The exact timing of these and the remaining operating parts of the machine will be readily understood without further description from an inspection of the timing diagram illustrated in Figure 23 in which th line A indicates the forward and rearward movements of the awl, the line B indicates theforward and rearward movements .of the needle, the line C indicates the feeding and back-feeding movements of the needle,

the line D indicates the feeding and backing movements of the. awl, the line E indicates the movements of the channel guide, the line F indicates the movements of the thread finger, the

' lines G and H indicate the movements of the defiector, the lines I and J indicates the movements of the looper, the line K indicates the movements of the take-up, the line L indicates the backward and forward movements of the welt guide, and the line M indicates the locking and unlocking of the welt guide.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and a machine embodying the several features of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:

1. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle operating to draw a loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loop,

means for actuating the stitch-forming and work feeding devices to impart a continuous feeding movement to the work, a loop deflector, and means for imparting movement to the deflector and needle relative to eachother while the needle is out of the work to deflect the loop carried by the needle towards the previously formed stitches.

2. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle operating to d'rawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loop,

means for actuating the stitch-forming and work feeding devices to impart a continuous feeding movement to the work including means for moving the needle with the work while in engagement therewith, a loop deflector, and means for actuating the deflector while the needle is out of the work to deflect the loop carried by the needle towards the previously formed stitches, and

3. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle operating to draw a loopof thread through the work and through a previously formed loop,

means for actuating the stitch-forming and work feeding devices to impart a continuous feeding movement to the work including means for moving the needle with the work while in engagement therewith, a loop deflector, and means for moving the deflector transversely to the line of feed into and out of engagement with the loop carried by the needle and, while in engagement with the loop, for moving the deflector to deflect the loop towards the previously formed stitches and thereafter move with the needle during the back-feeding movement of the needle.

4. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle operating to draw a loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loop, means for actuating the stitch-forming and work feeding devices to impart a continuous feeding movement to the work, a welt guide, means for yieldingly forcing the welt guide against the shoe, a loop deflector, a connection between the loop deflector and the welt guide to regulate the distance of the deflector from the shoe, and

means for imparting movement to the deflector and needle relative to each other while the needle is out of the work to deflect the loop carried by the needle towards the previously formed stitches.

5. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle operating to draw a loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loop,

means for actuating the stitch-forming and work feeding devices to impart a continuous feeding movement to the work including means for moving the needle with the work while in engagement therewith, a loop deflector, and means for actuating the deflector while the needle is out of the work to deflect the loop carried by the needle towards the previously formed stitches, thereafter to move with the needle during the back feeding movement of the needle and to remain in engagement with the loop during the movement of the needle towards the work.

6. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination stitch-forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle operating to draw a loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loop, a welt guide, mechanism for moving the welt guide towards and from the shoe during each stitchforming cycle, a loop deflector, lever and link connections between the welt guide moving mechanism and the deflector to regulate the distance of the deflector from the shoe, and means for actuating the deflector while the needle is out of the work to deflect the loop carried by the needle towards the previously formed stitches.

'1. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices comprising a curved hook needle, a channel guide and an awl, and means for moving the channel guide, needle, and awl back and forth in the line of feed to impart a continuous feeding movement to the work acting to move the channel guide back and forth in the line of feed a plurality of times during each stitch-forming cycle.

" 8; An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices comprising a curved hook needle, a channel guide andan awl, means for moving the needle, awl, and channel guide back and forth in the line of feed to feed the work, acting during each stitch-forming cycle to back feed the channel guide with the awl while the needle is feeding the work and to again back feed the channel guide while the awl is feeding the work.

9. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices comprising a curved hook needle, 9. channel guide and an awl, and means for actuating said devices to impart a continuous feeding movement to the work acting to cause the awl to impart a faster feeding movement to the work than the needle as the needle enters the work.

10. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices comprising a curved hook needle, a channel guide and an awl, separate carriers for the needle and awl, cams and suitable connections for moving the carriers back and forth in the line of feed to feed the work, and mechanism actuated by said connections for moving the channel guide back and forth in the line of feed twice during each stitch-forming cycle.

11. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices comprising a curved hook needle, a channel guideand an'awl, separate carriers for the needle and awl, cams and suitable connections for moving the carriers back and forth in the line of feed to feed the work, and mechanism for moving the channel guide back and forth in the line of feed comprising a lever, a connection from the awl actuating connections to one end of the lever, a connection from the needle actuating connections to the other end of the lever, and a member connected to the channel guide on which said lever is pivotallly mounted intermediate its ends, and which is actuated to move the channel guide by the bodily movement of the pivot of the lever.

12. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices comprising a curved hook needle, and an awl, separate carriers for the needle and awl, cams and suitable connections for moving the carriers back and forth in the line of feed, a welt guide, a separate carrier for the welt guide, and connections from the awl actuating connections to the welt guide carrier for moving the welt guide carrier with the awl carrier back and forth in the line of feed.

13. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices comprising a curved hook needle, a channel guide and an awl, means for moving the needle, awl, and channel guide back and forth in the line of feed to impart a continuous feeding movement to the work comprising means for moving the channel guide back and forth twice during each stitch-forming cycle, a welt guide movable towards and from the work, and means for moving the welt guide away from the work twice during each stitch-forming cycle to relieve the pressure on the work during the back-feeding movements of the channel guide.

.guide, a movable support for the fulcrum of the lever, a cam, and connections from the cam to the lever for moving the lever about its fulcrum to move the welt guide away from the work while the fulcrum support is locked, means for locking and unlocking the fulcrum support during each stitch-forming cycle, and a spring acting on the connections between the lever and the'welt guide while the fulcrum support is unlocked to move the welt guide towards the shoe.

15.. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination; stitch-forming devices including a curved hook needle, a welt guide movable towards and from the shoe, mechanism for actuating the welt guide comprising a pivoted lever, connections between the lever andthe welt guide, a movable support for the fulcrum of the lever, a cam, and connections from the cam to the lever for moving the lever about its fulcrum to move the welt guide away from the work while the fulcrum support is locked, means for locking and unlocking the fulcrum support during each stitch-forming cycle, means for yieldingly moving the welt guide towards the shoe while the fulcrum support is unlocked, and means operating on stopping the machine to unlock the fulcrum support .and move the welt guide away fromthe shoe.

16. An inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle and a curved awl arranged to enter the work from, the upper side of the shoe, oscillating carriers for the needle and awl, and means for supporting the awl carrier to cause the awl during its oscillating movements to move in a plane angularly disposed with relation to the plane of movement of the needle.

1'7. An inseam shoe sewingmachine having, in combination, stitch-forming and work feeding its oscillating movements to move in a plane, angularly disposed With relation to the plane of movement of the needle.

18. A shoe sewing machine having, in combi nation, stitch-forming devices including .ahook l needle and a looper for threading the needle, and meansfor actuating the looper to carry the thread about the needle comprising a lever piv-' 4 otally mounted to swing about its pivot and move .1

bodily longitudinally, connections from one end; of the lever to the looper, a pair of links pivotal ly connected to the other end of the lever, and Y cam actuated levers connected to the links, Saddj' cam actuated levers and links cooperating to" V impart longitudinal and swinging movements to said first-mentioned lever.

19. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming devices including a hook needle and a looper for threading the needle, and means for actuating the looper to carry the thread about the needle comprising a lever, a pivotally mounted-arm upon which the lever is pivotally mounted intermediate its ends, connections from one end of the lever to the looper, a pair of links connected to the other end of the lever, cam actuated levers connected to the links, said cam actuated levers and links cooperating to swing said first mentioned lever about the pivotal connection with its supporting arm and to swing the supporting arm about its pivot.

JOSEPH GOULDBOURN.

THOMAS AUBREY KESTELL. 

